Creative kids

Last week me and Terry Morris spent an exhausting but very rewarding three days with a bunch of street kids from Essaouira. As part of the Shore to Shore project we were there to run photography workshops with the kids. We gave each a simple Nikon digital camera and some very basic instruction -- although given that most of the children didn't speak a lot of French, it really was basic. But we didn't need to worry. Children love gadgets, and the Nikons were very intuitive to use. In a couple of minutes our young photographers were shooting decent pictures.

Over the three days we took them to a variety of locations in and around Essauoira. Actually having lived on the streets, they took us as much as we took them. They were a bit of a handful but charming and well behaved.

We worked for hours and hours and they never seemed to tire. I was amazed at the continual enthusiasm they showed, how they were always looking for opportunities and always experimenting with new angles and approaches.

The results, as I hope you agree, are stunning. Terry, an established successful professional, said he would be happy to call many of the images his own. The child's eye perspective is interesting and it proves that if you give kids the space and support their creativity flows. Evidence I think of the power of informal learning.

I am reminded of Picasso's words: "Every child is an artist. The trouble is how to remain an artist when we grow up."

new portrait

My new portrait taken by the brilliant photographer Terry Morris in Essaouira last week.

The Road to Morocco

The great Shore-to-Shore caravan starts its move today from the UK to Essaouira. This follows a very successful British leg over the past week that included Monday's acclaimed performances at St Marks in Regents Park.

Musicians, actors, dancers, cooks, historians, photographers will all be converging for performances and celebrations, first in Essaouira and then Marrakech. I will be joining them for a few days at the weekend.

Our Moroccan sufi hosts Boujemar and Abdou...

....have been working tirelessly setting things up at their end, they have even organised a dinner with the Governor.

I am particularly looking forward to the Street Life photo workshops which top celebrity photographer and artist, Terry Morris, is leading. Terry will be giving digital cameras and tuition to local kids and then encouraging them to portray their Essaouira rather than the tourist version. The culinary side should be fascinating as well. Caroline Yeldham, the food historian, and Andy Hook, the Newcastle chef, restaurateur and champion of Medieval food, will be exploring the gastronomic cross-currents between Britain and Morocco in the past, and -- I hope -- cooking up some treats with our chef friends in Morocco.

Of course the incomparable Passamezzo from the UK and the Ensemble Mogador Musique Soufi will be continuing their collaboration and playing hauntingly beautiful fusion music; and there will be performances of dance and English and Arabic texts from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Next week in Marrakech Shore-to-Shore will be taking part in the prestigious Arts in Marrakech Biennale as well as a Shakespeare symposium at Marrakech University.

Wow what a lot of links....

Keep watching this space for more details. 

Marrakech and Essaouira

...here we come.

All booked. Now I just have to think about what I can possibly say at the conference. Anyway have nearly a fortnight to think about it.

Sufi

I was lucky enough to meet and be entertained by a group of Sufi musicians while in Morocco. Under Sufi Master, Abdul, they played in our tent at the Jardin'Art and later in the evening at our ryad. They were superb and I was fascinated by this gentle, mystic tradition of Islam, about which I know so little.

The only Sufis I had ever come across before were Dervishes (of the whirling and non-whirling variety) the couple of times I have been to Konya in Turkey. The Essaouira troupe didn't whirl but they represent a long and honourable tradition of blending mysticism with musical virtuosity. The religious and musical heritage is  passed on by Sufi Master to pupil across the generations. Particularly poignant was the story from one of the group, the grandson of a slave, about the metal castanet-type instrument he played -- they were apparently representative of the iron shackles his ancestors wore.

     I need to learn more about this whole area and am keen to explore links with the Tarab tradition in Zanzibar (of which I feel but don't know, there must be some).

Holed-Up

When the ash cloud struck and european civilisation was clicked into pause mode, we headed out of Marrakech for Essaouira. The space, coastal breeze and a less crowded airline office made it a very agreeable place to sit out the storm.  We stayed at Diana's house, set into the city ramparts facing the ocean.It was a perfect introduction to this fascinating place.

   

Of course the place that Essaouira reminds me of most is Stone Town in Zanzibar. The narrow streets, Arabic architecture, markets and blue seas are strikingly similar, even though it's the opposite side of the African continent, the Atlantic rather than the Indian Ocean.

I feel sure I will visit Essaouira again.

Breakfast "au terrace" with the morning sun and breeze from the ocean

  

And with the age old walls you can forget the odd volcano.